How a private well works: from the aquifer to your tap, and what your well's design means for testing

Well water is groundwater you pump yourself. Here is how aquifers, well types, casing, pump and pressure tank work, from USGS, EPA and state well programs, and how your well's construction changes what you should test for.

General information, not medical or professional advice. Check the dated sources below, ask your health department about your own well, and see our terms.

The short answer: a private well is a hole in the ground held open by a pipe, the casing, that reaches down into an aquifer, a layer of sand, gravel or rock whose pores and cracks are full of water. A pump pushes that water up the casing, out through a fitting below the frost line and into a pressure tank, usually in the basement or a utility room. Compressed air in the tank pushes water to your faucets, and a pressure switch restarts the pump when the pressure drops. Well water is simply groundwater that you pump yourself.

The part that matters to an owner: how your well was built, and which layer it draws from, decide what can get into the water. A 25-foot driven point in sand and a 300-foot drilled well cased through clay have different weak spots, so they need different tests. This guide covers the geology, the parts and the path to your tap, then turns it into a testing table, using only USGS, EPA, CDC, state well programs and Penn State Extension.

What well water is: groundwater and aquifers

Well water starts as rain and snowmelt. The USGS Water Science School describes it this way: some of the precipitation that lands on the ground "infiltrates into the subsurface," and the part that keeps moving down "until it reaches rock material that is saturated is groundwater recharge" (USGS, What is groundwater?).

Near the surface, in the unsaturated zone, soil and rock "contain air and some water." Below the water table, in the saturated zone, water "fills the tiny spaces (pores) between rock particles and the cracks (fractures) of the rocks." Dig a hole at the beach and it partly fills from below; USGS says you have "essentially dug a 'well' that exposes the water table, with an aquifer beneath it" (USGS, Aquifers and groundwater).

Not every wet layer is useful. USGS reserves the word for a layer that gives water up easily: "When a water-bearing rock readily transmits water to wells and springs, it is called an aquifer." The Minnesota Department of Health (MDH) gives the counterpart: a confining layer is "a layer of sediment or rock that slows or prevents the downward movement of water," and "a thick layer of clay is an example."

Groundwater moves, often slowly: USGS says it "may move several meters in a day" in some materials and "only a few centimeters in a century" in others. The trip filters a lot out. MDH says bacteria, viruses and many chemicals "are removed or filtered from the water as it moves downward through silt, sand, and gravel deposits." It also adds minerals: groundwater quality, per MDH, "depends on the type of soil, sediment, or rock through which the water is moving, the length of time water is in contact with geologic materials, and whether any contaminants are present."

Unconfined vs. confined aquifers

USGS describes a layered system: an unconfined aquifer on top with no confining layer, and in some places confined aquifers below it, held "under pressure from the rock weight" (USGS, Artesian water and artesian wells). A well into a confined aquifer is an artesian well; if the pressure lifts water above the wellhead, it flows. Depth alone does not make a well artesian. Our artesian well guide covers flowing wells, state rules and why artesian water still needs testing.

Dug, driven (sand point) and drilled wells

EPA and CDC both sort private wells into three types: dug or bored, driven, and drilled. Type sets how deep a well can go and whether it has a continuous casing, the two things the sources tie most closely to contamination risk.

TypeHow it's builtTypical depthContamination risk, as the sources put it
Dug or boredDug by shovel or backhoe (or bored with an auger) and lined with stones, brick, tile or other material. Large diameter; MDH says "generally several feet."EPA: "approximately 10 to 30 feet deep." USGS: they "cannot be dug much deeper than the water table.""Not cased continuously" (EPA). USGS: shallow and lacking continuous casing, "making them subject to contamination from nearby surface sources," and they can go dry in drought.
Driven (drive-point, sand-point)Small pipe driven into soft sand or gravel, usually with a screen at the bottom. MDH: casing "usually 1¼ inches in diameter."EPA: "approximately 30 to 50 feet deep."EPA: cased, but "can be contaminated easily because they draw water from aquifers near the surface."
DrilledTruck-mounted rotary or percussion rigs; casing installed. MDH: most new Minnesota wells are drilled, usually by the rotary method.EPA: "can be thousands of feet deep." USGS: "more than 1,000 feet deep."EPA: "lower risk of contamination due to their depth and use of continuous casing." CDC: "generally easier to keep harmful germs and chemicals out of" than dug, bored or driven wells.

MDH's Well Owner's Handbook puts the three shallow types together: "Dug wells, bored wells, and drive-point wells are often less than 50 feet deep, and are more likely to be contaminated by surface water, sewage from septic systems, or chemical spills." The numbers differ from EPA's (30 to 50 feet for driven wells); both describe typical wells, not limits. If yours is a sand-point well, row A of the testing table below applies: coliform bacteria and nitrate at least every year, plus extra samples after heavy rain or snowmelt, because MDH says nitrate in drive-point and other shallow wells "may only be present during the spring, or after a heavy rainfall."

How deep is a water well?

There is no national typical depth; local geology sets it. USGS says water "may be plentiful just 10 feet below the land surface, or a deep well might have to be drilled many hundreds of feet." MDH lists what drives the choice: "1) depth to groundwater, 2) the groundwater quality, and 3) the geologic conditions at the well site."

The state figures we found, each from its own source:

  • Minnesota: wells "range in depth from 15 feet to over 1,000 feet." In glacial deposits, the depth of wells "can vary greatly — even if they are located next door to each other" (MDH handbook, updated January 2014).
  • Pennsylvania: wells "can range from less than 10 feet to more than 1,000 feet deep. The average well is usually between 100 and 200 feet" (Penn State Extension, Private Water Systems FAQs, updated October 13, 2025).

Depth doesn't predict yield either. USGS says an adequate domestic supply is "usually 5 gallons per minute," and getting it "depends upon the permeability of the rock": dense granite at the surface may yield "little or no water," while porous sandstone far down may yield hundreds of gallons per minute. USGS also notes that "Domestic wells typically pump water from shallower depths than public-supply wells" (USGS, Domestic (private) supply wells).

Your own well's depth is on its well log, if one was filed; finding well and septic records shows where to look it up.

The parts of a private well and what each one does

EPA and USGS adapt their part descriptions from the National Ground Water Association; MDH's handbook adds sizes. A drilled well with a submersible pump, the common modern setup, has these parts:

PartWhat it doesDetails from the sources
CasingHolds the hole open from the aquifer to the surface. "Along with grout, the casing keeps dirt and excess water out of the well" (EPA).New household casing is "typically 4 to 6 inches in diameter" (MDH).
GroutFills the annular space between the casing and the drilled hole "to keep surface water and other contaminants from entering the well" (MDH).Cement or bentonite clay, pumped in from the bottom with a tremie pipe "until it appears at the surface" (Penn State).
ScreenLets water in while keeping sand and gravel out. Used in sand or gravel aquifers."Generally not necessary" if the well ends in bedrock that stays open on its own (MDH).
Cap and ventKeeps out "debris, insects, or small animals"; the vent controls pressure during pumping (EPA).Penn State: a sanitary cap has a rubber gasket and a screened vent; most wells have a standard cap that "leaves an air gap."
Pitless adapter or unitLets the water line leave the casing below the frost line, keeping "a sanitary and frost-proof seal" (USGS).Attaches to the casing "usually 6 or 7 feet down"; made old well pits unnecessary, which MDH calls "a serious health hazard."
Submersible pumpSits inside the casing below the water level and pushes water up."Most commonly used" for deep private wells (EPA). MDH's example of a typical home pump: 10 gpm with a ½ or ¾ hp motor.
Jet pumpMounted above ground; draws water up by suction.Most common for shallow wells, "depth of 25 feet or less" (EPA). Most often used on wells 3 inches or less across, "such as drive-point" wells (MDH).
Pressure tank and switchStores water under pressure so the pump doesn't start every time you open a tap, which "serves to prolong the life of the pump" (MDH).Pump shuts off at a preset pressure, typically 40 to 60 psi, and restarts at usually 20 to 40 psi. Tanks of 20 to 44 gallons, with 5 to 16 gallons of drawdown, are the most common (MDH).

Whether those parts are required depends on the state. Penn State says Pennsylvania "is one of only a few states that do not have mandatory statewide construction standards for private water wells," grout "is usually not used on private wells in Pennsylvania unless it is required by local ordinances or requested by the homeowner," and "Less than 20% of wells in Pennsylvania have all five" of its recommended sanitary features (Penn State, Sanitary Water Well Construction, updated June 15, 2026; Five Parts of Sanitary Water Well Construction, updated August 24, 2026). Minnesota, by contrast, has had well construction rules since July 1974, per MDH.

It matters: Penn State reports that a 2002 USGS study of more than 100 Pennsylvania private wells found "ungrouted wells were three times more likely to be contaminated with E. coli bacteria compared to grouted wells." Penn State also notes that, in general, "it is not possible to grout an existing well."

How water gets from the aquifer to your tap, step by step

  1. Recharge. Rain and snowmelt soak down to the saturated zone, nearby for an unconfined aquifer, from a distance for a confined one.
  2. Into the well. Water enters through the screen, or the open hole in bedrock. Pumping lowers the water level around the well into a cone of depression, and USGS explains: "This pressure differential causes water to flow to the well."
  3. Up the casing. A submersible pump below the water level pushes the water up. On a shallow well, a jet pump at the surface pulls it up by suction instead. A flowing artesian well needs no pump at all.
  4. Out below the frost line. The water leaves the casing through the pitless adapter, usually 6 or 7 feet down, and runs to the house in a buried service pipe. "Because the water service pipe is buried deeper than the frost line, the water will not freeze" (MDH).
  5. Into the pressure tank. As water is pumped in, it "compresses the air in the tank" until the pressure reaches the cut-off, typically 40 to 60 psi, and the pump stops (MDH).
  6. Out the faucet. When you open a tap, "the air pressure in the tank forces water through the pipes" until pressure falls to the cut-in point, usually 20 to 40 psi, and the pressure switch starts the pump again.

This water is rarely metered: USGS says self-supplied domestic withdrawals "are rarely metered or reported." And it comes out of a shared aquifer. USGS warns that pumping too much too fast can make a well "yield less and less water and even run dry," and that it "can even cause your neighbor's well to run dry if you both are pumping from the same aquifer."

If the pump short-cycles or pressure surges, our well water maintenance guide has a symptom table and says who to call.

How to tell what kind of well you have

CDC says "Looking at the cover and outside (casing) of your well may help you determine the type of well it is." These clues come from MDH's and USGS's descriptions. Treat them as hints, not proof:

What you seeWhat it suggests (MDH, USGS)
A wide, shallow structure several feet across, lined with stone, brick or tile, covered with a cap of "wood, stone, or concrete" (USGS)A dug or bored well
A narrow pipe about 1¼ inches across, with the pump at the top or in a nearby pump houseA drive-point well with a jet pump
A steel or plastic casing about 4 to 6 inches across sticking up from the ground, with a cap, and no pump on topA drilled well, most likely with a submersible pump inside

The well log, the construction record the driller files, is the real answer: depth, casing and the layers drilled through. Where to look:

  • Minnesota: the Minnesota Well Index shows "location, depth, geology, construction, and static water level." MDH began requiring well records in 1974, so the "majority of wells constructed prior to 1974 will not be on file."
  • Wisconsin: the DNR's well records search: reports show "drillhole depth and the casing depth"; for wells built before 1988, search by township, range and section.
  • Pennsylvania: the Pennsylvania Groundwater Information System "holds hundreds of thousands of water well records."
  • Washington: Ecology's well report viewer; locations are accurate only "to the nearest township, section, and range."

Buying a house? The well inspection guide covers seller records and what an inspector checks.

Private well vs. city water: who is responsible

Most Americans don't have a well. USGS estimates that 283 million people, "about 87 percent of the total United States population," got household water from public supply in 2015, and that "An estimated 42.5 million people in the United States, or 13 percent of the population, provided their own water for domestic use in 2015." Nearly all of that self-supplied water, 98 percent, came from fresh groundwater (USGS Circular 1441, Dieter and others, 2018). City systems differ: 61 percent of public-supply withdrawals came from surface sources such as lakes and streams.

You'll see other counts too. A USGS data release by Ayotte and others (2017) says "Approximately 44.1 M people in the U.S. use water from domestic wells" (USGS data release). EPA says "Around 15 percent of the U.S. population (over 43 million) rely on private wells" and estimates "more than 23 million households" do (EPA, Private drinking water wells, updated August 25, 2026). The figures come from different studies and years, so they don't match exactly.

Share of each state's population that supplied its own household water, 2015percent

U.S. 13

Show the numbers
ItemValueNote
Maine50 percent
Vermont39 percent
Wisconsin28 percent
Pennsylvania27 percent
Connecticut24 percent
Minnesota21 percent
Virginia19 percent
Ohio16 percent
Washington14 percent
New York13 percent

Self-supplied domestic population as a percent of total state population, from USGS Circular 1441, Table 6. Nationally, 13 percent; USGS says 98 percent of self-supplied domestic withdrawals were from fresh groundwater. Source: USGS, Dieter and others (2018), Estimated use of water in the United States in 2015, Circular 1441, Table 6, accessed 2026-11-02.

Shares in our ten states run from nearly one-half of Maine to 13 percent of New York. In head count, USGS says Pennsylvania had the most self-supplied people in the country, then Michigan and New York.

People who supplied their own household water, 2015, by statethousand people
Show the numbers
ItemValueNote
Pennsylvania3,470 thousand people
New York2,500 thousand people
Ohio1,860 thousand people
Wisconsin1,600 thousand people
Virginia1,560 thousand people
Minnesota1,180 thousand people
Washington1,020 thousand people
Connecticut861 thousand people
Maine660 thousand people
Vermont244 thousand people

Self-supplied domestic population in thousands, from USGS Circular 1441, Table 6 (values rounded by USGS). National total: 42,500 thousand, or 42.5 million. Source: USGS, Dieter and others (2018), Estimated use of water in the United States in 2015, Circular 1441, Table 6, accessed 2026-11-02.

The legal difference is about the water, not the hole. EPA says the Safe Drinking Water Act exists to regulate "the nation's public drinking water supply" and "does not regulate private wells which serve fewer than 25 individuals" (EPA, SDWA overview). Wisconsin DNR puts the line plainly: private wells "have fewer than 15 connections and serve fewer than 25 people," and their protection and maintenance "is largely the responsibility of homeowners" (Wisconsin DNR, Information for private well owners).

CDC: "Tap water from private wells is not regulated, treated, or monitored by officials." A state may regulate how a well is built, as Minnesota does, and still leave the water to you. For a side-by-side of public and private duties, see Is well water safe to drink?

How your well's design changes what you should test for

Here the geology pays off. Contaminants reach a well from the surface (down the outside of the casing, past a loose cap, or through a shallow aquifer) or from the aquifer itself (its rock, or pollution already spread through it). Well type and construction mostly change the first path, not the second.

Penn State describes the surface path: surface contamination of individual wells "is usually caused by surface water flowing down the outside of a well casing through the annular space and/or from a loose-fitting or absent well cap." But construction has limits: "Wells drilled into aquifers that are contaminated by animal wastes, septic systems, or surface water can contain coliform bacteria regardless of well-construction practices." In Penn State's own study of new wells built with a sanitary cap and grout, 29 percent still had coliform bacteria.

Minnesota writes this into its rules: a well with less than 50 feet of watertight casing that isn't cased through a confining layer such as clay at least 10 feet thick counts as a "sensitive" water-supply well (MDH handbook; the legal definition is in Minnesota Rules 4725.0100, subpart 43a), and under Minnesota Rules 4725.4450 its isolation distances from sources that drain into the soil "are doubled."

Your wellWhat the sources sayTests to discuss with your lab or health department
A. Dug, bored or driven, or any well under about 50 feetMDH: water from some wells, "in particular shallow or old wells," may "vary in quality during the year, especially after heavy rainfall or melting of snow"; In drive-point and other shallow wells, nitrate "may only be present during the spring, or after a heavy rainfall."Coliform bacteria and nitrate at least every year (MDH's current schedule), plus extra samples after heavy rain or snowmelt; MDH's handbook recommends "More frequent testing of old wells or wells less than 50 feet deep."
B. Shallow or old well near fields, in sand plains or karstMDH: wells most at risk of pesticides "are shallow or old, located close to areas of pesticide use or storage, and located in geologically sensitive areas such as sand plains or 'karst' (weathered limestone) bedrock areas"; high-nitrate wells are "more likely to have detectable levels of pesticides."Row A tests, plus pesticides used most in your area (MDH says "consider testing")
C. Ungrouted well or standard (non-sanitary) capPenn State: ungrouted wells "three times more likely" to have E. coli in the USGS study; bacterial contamination occurs "in about 50 percent of the private water wells in Pennsylvania."Coliform bacteria including E. coli, at least yearly (CDC) and "whenever a well is opened up" (MDH); ask a well contractor about a sanitary cap
D. Older well in a pitMDH: contaminated flood water and runoff "can easily flow into a well pit and get into the well itself."Coliform bacteria (after a flood, see the maintenance guide); MDH recommends upgrading the installation
E. Drilled well, cased deep or through a confining layerEPA: drilled wells have a "lower risk of contamination"; CDC: easier to keep germs and chemicals out. But depth doesn't remove natural contaminants: MDH says arsenic "occurs naturally in the groundwater in many parts of Minnesota," every private well "should be tested at least once," and arsenic levels "will not usually change much over time."Coliform and nitrate on your state's schedule, plus natural contaminants your state flags (MDH: arsenic at least once), such as arsenic, uranium or radon

For a full checklist by situation, use our which-tests tool; for sampling and timing, the how-to-test guide; for your health department's list, your page under states.

Worked example 1 (illustrative). You pull the well log for a lake cabin and it says: drive-point, 28 feet, 1¼-inch casing, sand. That's row A. MDH recommends testing it more often than once a year, and since nitrate in a shallow well may appear only in spring or after heavy rain, it makes sense to time one sample after snowmelt. If corn fields surround the lot, row B adds a pesticide question for your health department.

Worked example 2 (illustrative). A farmhouse well log shows 240 feet drilled, casing to 85 feet through 30 feet of clay, open hole in sandstone below. That's row E: the clay and long casing make surface contamination less likely, and in Minnesota it wouldn't be "sensitive." But MDH ties groundwater quality to the rock the water moves through. Keep the yearly test CDC recommends, and if your state flags arsenic, test for it at least once.

Clear doesn't mean safe. MDH: "Contaminated water can often look, smell, and taste fine, so there is no substitute for periodic testing of well water." Find a state-certified lab near you with our lab finder.

Questions people ask

How does a water well work?
A well is a hole held open by a pipe called the casing that reaches an aquifer, a layer whose pores and cracks are full of groundwater. A pump, usually a submersible one inside the casing, pushes water up and out through a pitless adapter below the frost line to a pressure tank. MDH says the pump stops at a preset pressure, typically 40 to 60 psi, and restarts at 20 to 40 psi as you use water.
What is well water?
It is groundwater: rain and snowmelt that soaked down into saturated sand, gravel or rock and is pumped back up. USGS says 98 percent of the water Americans supplied for their own homes in 2015 came from fresh groundwater. Its quality depends, as the Minnesota Department of Health puts it, on the rock it moves through, how long it stays in contact, and whether contaminants are present.
How deep are most wells?
It depends on local geology. EPA gives dug wells as about 10 to 30 feet and driven wells about 30 to 50 feet, while drilled wells "can be thousands of feet deep." Minnesota wells range from 15 feet to over 1,000 feet (MDH). Penn State says Pennsylvania wells range from under 10 to over 1,000 feet, with the average usually between 100 and 200 feet.
Which type of well is safest?
No type is automatically safe, but the sources rank the risk. EPA says drilled wells "have a lower risk of contamination due to their depth and use of continuous casing," and CDC says germs and chemicals are generally easier to keep out of drilled wells than dug, bored or driven ones. Natural contaminants such as arsenic come from the aquifer itself, so any well needs testing.
Can a well run dry?
Yes. USGS says pumping too much too fast can make a well "yield less and less water and even run dry," and heavy pumping can even dry up a neighbor's well on the same aquifer. Seasonal rainfall and drought also change water levels; when the level drops below the pump intake, USGS says the well begins to pump air.
Does a well pump need electricity?
Almost always. USGS says a submersible pump sits inside the casing and is "connected to a power source on the surface," jet pumps are "mounted above ground" (EPA), and MDH notes that home pump motors are rated in horsepower. The exception is a flowing artesian well, where pressure in a confined aquifer pushes water above the wellhead with "no pump needed," according to USGS.
Is well water better than city water?
None of the official sources we used says one is safer. The difference is who checks. EPA says the Safe Drinking Water Act "does not regulate private wells which serve fewer than 25 individuals," and CDC says private well water is "not regulated, treated, or monitored by officials." A public system works with EPA and the state to meet federal standards; with a well, testing is up to you. See Is well water safe to drink?
How can I find out how deep my well is?
Look up the well log, the construction record the driller filed. Minnesota has the Minnesota Well Index, Wisconsin a well records search, Pennsylvania PaGWIS and Washington the well report viewer. Older wells may have no record: MDH says most wells built before 1974 aren't on file. Wisconsin DNR suggests hiring a licensed well professional to measure the depth if you can't find a report.
SourcesFederal limits quoted here apply to public water systems, not private wells. This page is general information, not medical advice. Rules change: check the dates on each source.